Monastery Islands of Lake Tana

Lake Tana is the largest lake in Ethiopia, measuring around 3,700 square kilometres. It has approximately three-dozen islands that have been important monastic sites for centuries and are still inhabited by monks and nuns. Beautiful, ancient convents lie hidden in the wooded island’s undergrowth featuring fantastic historical paintings and impressive church treasures. Wild legends flow throughout Lake Tana. The remoteness of the islands made them ideal havens during turbulent times as well as places of exile for those who were condemned. The sacred biblical Arc of the Covenant is said to have been brought here to safety twice – in the first incident, it was kept on the island of Tana Chirkos for 800 years!

The Kibran Gabriel Church * The first monasteries were already built in the 14^th century, including the monastery Kibran Gabriel, which lies on an island closest to the town of Bahir Dar. Kibran Gabriel has a large library of nearly 200 historical documents, including a highly valuable and beautifully illuminated manuscript from the 15^th century. However, women are denied access to this island – including even female animals!

The Ura Kidane Mihret Church * This church is open to women and is thought to be among the finest in the region, situated on the Zege peninsula. A narrow path leads from the pier through the tangled jungle to the protected church. The site was established in the 14^th century and the current buildings date back to the 16^th century.

The round Ura Kidane Mihret church has a straw-thatched roof that follows the classic structure of the churches of the region. The building itself is surrounded by an outside path, which is covered with bamboo mats providing a translucent screen to the outside. Huge wooden doors lead inside the church, which lies in semi-darkness, illuminated only by the doorways. The entrance leads around a shrine several metres long and with a drum, which lies in the centre of the room. Fantastical Bible illustrations adorn the shrine from top to bottom. Tapestries full of colour cover this holy sanctum, portraying scenes from the life of Christ, events from the Old Testament, and local legends. Another large, painted door leads to the shrine where the holy Tabot (a copy of Tablets of Law from the Old Testament) is preserved within the church.

Dek Island * This is the largest island on Lake Tana. Located almost in the centre of the lake, a trip to this island can take a full day or more. In total, four churches can be found around Dek Island. Most interesting however, is the monastery church Narga Selassie, located on a small island to the west of Dek. The Gonder Empress Mentewab built the church in 1746 and its paintings are among the most beautiful and best preserved of the second Gonder style.

The Church of Daga Istafanos * This island monastery, which lies just east of Dek island poses another curiosity: 18 emperors are said to have been buried here. The mummified remains of five are laid out in glass coffins. Among them is Emperor Fasilidas, whose crown and trumpets can be admired in the treasury. This island is also inhabited by monks and women are not permitted access.

For today’s travellers, Lake Tana offers more than just an excursion deep into the past of Orthodox Ethiopia. The idyllic islands, with their pristine, densely covered tropical forests are like lush gardens of paradise in an enchanted lake. Parrots squawk, colourful butterflies flutter about, and in some places you can even spot pelicans and hippos

Light boats made of papyrus called Takwa carry locals between the mainland and the islands. Goods are transported from one point to another and the scene is reminiscent of ancient Egypt. In this way, the Tana Lake region has always stayed connected with Egypt via the Blue Nile, which rises at the southern tip of the lake. Just a few kilometres further, the water plunges into the famous Blue Nile Falls at a height of over 45 metres.

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