Gonder

The former imperial city of Gonder is still distinguished by the buildings of its great golden years in the 17^th and 18^th centuries. A vast palace district, surrounded by a massive stone wall, dominates the city. Twelve gates serve as the entrances to the royal enclosure. Upon entering, an ensemble of six palaces as well as smaller individual buildings appears, all located close together. Passages on the first floor connect parts of the palaces. History is alive here: a place where a courtly life was once celebrated, full with intrigue and extravagant feasts.

The great age of Gonder began in 1635 when the newly crowned Emperor Fasilidas made this provincial city north of Lake Tana his new royal capital. Before this time the century was bloody with gruelling armed conflicts between Muslims and Orthodox Christians, instability, and the fight against encroaching Catholicism. With Gonder as the new home of the Emperor also a new era began. Since 1270 there had been no permanent capital – Gondar held that title for over 200 years.

Soon, Gondar was the largest and most important city of the empire. Trade, art and literature flourished and mass construction began. For the first time since the Axumite Empire, durable multi-story buildings were erected out of stone and their own building style was born. The Emperor and his court developed a taste for luxury and splendour. European travellers who were guests of the imperial court told of an ostentatious court, not inferior to its European counterparts – those at home in Europe, however, could hardly believe this.

The Royal Enclosure * The Emperor Fasilidas lived with his court in the central palace district. Subsequent emperors built their own palaces on the extensive grounds. Thus arose over decades a dense complex of prestigious buildings and their related utility houses.

The palace of Fasilidas is marked by its large banquet room, a suggestion of the large, dazzling parties that were held there. The Emperor addressed his people from the first floor and the central tower was used to watch over the city and surrounding areas – on a clear day one could see as far as Lake Tana. Fasilidas predecessor Iyasu.I. lived grandly in a palace adorned with gold, ivory, precious stones and paintings. Unfortunately this splendour fell victim to an earthquake in 1704. The emperors who followed were immortalized in structures built that reflected their individual architectural style. The music-loving Emperor Dawit.III built a grand concert hall in which music competitions were held, while his gregarious brother Bekaffa erected a massive banquet hall 50 metres in length. The last palace was built by a woman – the wife of the late Emperor Bekaffa and the mother of the still young Iyasu.II. The charismatic and wise Empress was loved by the people and was known far and wide for her beauty – her throne name was called Mentewab – “How beautiful she is – like art”.

Fasilidas’ Bath * At the foot of the city lies what is called Fasilidas’ Bath, named after the emperor himself. The building is similar to a water tower – a two-story building stands atop wide pillars in the centre of a 70 x 40 metre pool, under the shade of many beautiful trees. The pool is usually empty with the exception of Timkat, the Feast of the Baptism held in late January, when the pool is filled with water. An underground channel fills the pool with water from a nearby river. Spectators crowd around to watch the bishop of the city as he consecrates the water with his cross. This is the signal for the children and adolescents to jump into the sacred waters. In the meantime, the older believers dressed in their white robes receive their blessings along the edges of the sacred water.

Debre Berhan Selassie Church * The church of Debre Berhan Selassie (“Trinity at the Mountain of Light”) is famous for its magnificent ceiling and wall paintings, which are among the finest in the country. Visitors are captivated by the beamed ceiling, adorned with the faces of 80 angels with their characteristic large black eyes. The walls in the entrance of the traditional thatched roofed church are covered with bright, colourful religious paintings. Scenes from the life of Christ are vividly depicted and saints are portrayed. The area around the church is surrounded by a strong stone wall and the church itself was built by the Emperor Iyasu.I and consecrated in 1694. Since the original building burnt down, the current building is likely younger, probably dating back to the 18^th century. The paintings were likely restored in the 19^th century.

Besides the impressive paintings, the building itself is also remarkable. Contrary to the usual, local tradition of round churches, this church is shaped as a long rectangle, following the tradition of an Axumite basilica.

Other notable historical palaces and churches are located in or near the city limits.

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